Topic: Case specific nutritional needs
May 20, 2019 / By Demi Question:
Tomorrow I'm picking up my 8 week old Husky Shepherd mix. I have a lot of questions I want to know ahead of time.
-What kind of diet should she be on? What food how much she eats how often she eats etc...
-She has a room, should a kennel/crate be inside as well? (For her "Den")
-Should there be newspaper / some kind of pad for her in the room / house just in case she has an accident? (she will be trained to go potty outside)
-How often will she need to be taken out / walked to go to the bathroom and should it be in one spot? (Every 1 1/2 Hour?)
-When should she be introduced to my daily schedule?
-How much freedom should she have in the basement? (where her room will be)
-Should she be trained to potty inside AND out?
-Is she technically an "Aggressive breed" She's a Husky and Shepherd.
-Alarms on my smartphone for keeping her on a strict schedule? (eat at specific times) (pee after specific times) (sleep/nap time) Maybe specific times every day should be used for eating playing walking pottying etc...
-Basic beginner commands she should know??? (Go potty?) How should she be trained to do things like that? Like stay?
Calanthe | 10 days ago
You'll want to feed the dog a good quality food, as high a quality as you can afford. This should be specialized puppy food, ideally for large breeds. There will be a guide on the pack to show how much food she should have daily. This will show you how much of the dry food you should feed her, how much to subtract from it if she has moist food too so she won't become overweight and also how often she should be fed. An 8 week old puppy should be being fed smaller, more regular meals during the day because their stomach is smaller, thus cannot hold as much food. Ideally, 3 or 4 small meals daily. That way, she's still getting the same amount of food required. but won't feel like she's overeating.
Ideally, you should keep to the food she was being fed beforehand to help things go more smoothly. If you must change her diet, do it gradually over a few days. In order to do this, give her 1/4 new food and 3/4 old food to make up the same amount as she originally has for a few days. After that, give her half of each for a few days. Once you've done that, give her 3/4 new food and 1/4 old food. That way she won't refuse the new food and it reduces the risk that she'll suffer a stomach upset.
The brands of dog food I'd recommend are:-
- Arden Grange
- Chappie (especially good for dogs with food allergies since it's fish based. The tinned stuff has a mold able consistency, so it's also good for stuffing into a Kong)
- Advanced Nutrition
- James Wellbeloved
- Royal Canin
- Pro Plan
- Taste of the Wild
- Nature Diet
- Nature's Menu (sold frozen)
- Webbox chubbs (as an occasional treat - they are popular with many dogs because of the herbal content but contain little nutrition and lots of salt, similar to crisps that people have)
These are available from pets at home, but can also be found in the supermarkets and some in home bargains too. I strongly recommend you get the food in there if possible because a lot of the time, you're buying the same products, but for a lower cost. Home bargains is also good for dog treats and toys too.
The only stuff I'd recommend that you DON'T give the dog is:-
- the dirt cheap stuff i.e. supermarket value since they're mostly fillers with little nutritional content. You then have to feed the dog more food to provide the same nutrition which cancels out the cheap cost. From what I've seen, these foods can also cause stomach upsets too.
- baker's food (the stuff that's brightly colored). This is full of artificial additives including colorants which dogs don't need and it can cause behavioral problems, like the artificial additives in foods can cause hyperactivity in children.
- purina chow
Yes, this is ideal for the dog because they can learn to go into the cage when needed, like when you're cleaning the home so she won't get in your way or end up getting cleaner on her paws which could otherwise result in irritation. Since may dogs won't soil in their kennel.crate, it can also help with potty training, although you need to be aware that a puppy can't hold it as long as an adult dog because their bladder and bowels are smaller.
Having a 'potty area' indeed is an idea in case she has an accident. That way, it's very easy for you to clean up as the damage is limited to one area of the home. Also, she won't be holding it in if she's unable to get outside - like if you're out shopping for instance. For this, I'd advise that you buy them in home bargains. They come in packs of 40 for only £4.99 which is the cheapest per pad I've seen but they're great quality (in sources)
A puppy should be taken for toilet breaks regularly. This should be first thing in the morning, last thing at night, immediately after she's woken up and after she's had anything to eat or drink - these are the times when the dog is more likely to toilet. Also yes, it should be in one spot. That way not only does she associate the spot with toileting so there's less likely to be accidents, it can also limit any damage to garden areas from her waste, like burns from urine for instance.
Daily schedules should be introduced gradually. Ideally, pick the dog up later on so you have the whole evening to help her settle in. Fridays are good to get a dog since you then have the full weekend for this. Since dogs thrive on routines, you should ideally stick to the same schedule e.g. feed her the same time each day, have her food and water bowls in the same place, get her to toilet in the same places etc. This way, she knows what to do where in the home and won't get confused.
Freedom levels in the basement are more up to you, although you will want her to not ave access to valuable items and anything which could potentially hurt her like Christmas decorations for instance. To prevent this, have any items you don't want her getting to securely covered up or in a secure storage area like a cupboard with a lock.
Potty training the dog inside to start with is ideal, but you should eventually have her going outside only, the exception being if she can't get out e.g. during the night while you're asleep.
There's no such thing as an 'aggressive breed' as you put it. That kind of thing is down to stupid and senseless stereotyping. A dog's temperament depends far more on their early life experiences than the breed, including their training and socialization from a young age (or lack of). I've met lots of German Shepherds and plenty of Huskies who've been great! She should meet as many different people as possible from a young age as well as other dogs and non-canine pets like cats. When she meets other people, they should get down on her level to avoid intimidating her. It's also an idea if they can offer her a toy, a treat or a piece of food (on the flat of their palm to avoid accidental bites). That way she learns that people are good, not bad. Meeting children and cats should always be supervised since children may not understand the importance of not teasing the dog, not disturbing them while they're eating, drinking or sleeping and recognizing when she wants to be left alone. If there's any aggression with cats, let the cat know there's a safe place they can retreat to, but don't give up. Despite the expression 'fight like cat and dog', cats and dogs are not natural enemies, thus certainly don't have to be!
Having an alarm to keep things on schedule is ideal too. That way, you're far less likely to forget the necessary things like give any medications needed for instance.
The first things that a puppy should be taught it potty training, to not bite and what is and isn't appropriate to chew. Puppies explore their environment with their mouths and will be teething as their teeth come through their gums so will chew toys to help the tooth come through the surface. They also catch their litter mates with their teeth so this is a natural behavior although unacceptable,
If you catch her chewing something she shouldn't, take it from her, firmly say 'NO' and give her something else that it's OK for her to chew like a chew toy
To teach her not to bite, follow this guide:-
- get on the floor with her and start playing.
- never encourage a puppy to play with your hands - this will teach her to bite
- don't scare the puppy by tapping her face - this can make her snap and bite out of protective instinct
- if the puppy does bite or her teeth accidentally touch you, loudly yell 'OW', or yelp as if she'd hurt you and immediately stop playing.
- after a few minutes have passed, play with the puppy again. If she bites your again or her teeth touch you again, shout 'OW' or yelp again, then turn away from the puppy and ignore her. Put her in a 'time out' if necessary.
- give the puppy some kind of reward like praise or a treat if they don't bite.
- be consistent with the puppy and make sure anyone who lives in the same household follows it too. If you follow these guidelines, the puppy will quickly learn that biting is a fast way to bring an end the fun!
- if you are bitten, wash the area with soapy water if the bite broke the skin. Apply antiseptic cream and cover the wound with a bandage, then apply a cold compress to relieve the pain. If it's an obviously serious bite or becomes infected, seek medical attention immediately.
Hope this helps.
Originally Answered: Questions about my new puppy?
Only photo 4 (which you linked us to first) has anything to give a scale, but not a GOOD scale. It suggests about 6-8 weeks old.
Surely the "old guy" knows when the dam whelped????
To narrow Pup's age down to within a week, record his dentition & weight each week or two, and periodically see how he compares with the information in the Size_&_Weight and the Teeth_aka_Dentition sections of the site below. Averages ARE only averages, but better than nothing:
Add http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/The_G... to your browser's Bookmarks or Favorites so that you can easily look up such as feeding, vaccinations, clubs, weights, teething, neutering, disorders, genetics.
Age at erection is unpredictable. First erection can be at any time from 4 weeks onwards. But ears typically soften (full flop, or terrier-tipped, or bat-eared, or clothes-pegged) during teething. You saw both parents - if their ears are firm while trotting around you need have no fears. Most pups regain enough health to erect their ears permanently while 7 months old. The longest I've had to wait for both to erect at the same time was 9 months.
Provide a REAL gnaw bone (like 2 pieces of oxtail or sheep spine) every night. The gnawing exercises the facial muscles that control the ears, and also clean the teeth, dislodge deciduous teeth, and help permanent teeth break through the gum; in addition any bits digested have the perfect calcium : phosphorous balance.
Although undesirable, some white spots are tolerated. A chest spot is common (and has NOTHING to do with "poor breeding" as one "expert" claimed), but needs to be inconspicuous.
I didn't see the white-tipped toe, so guess it is on a hind foot. It will probably turn yellow fawn about now unless it is actually a "sock" (different reasons for being produced have different developments). Provided all the nails are black it can be forgiven. Not that it matters - you have not obtained a show & breeding specimen. (You can, however, get registration for obedience only if you later want to compete in such as Agility, Companion-utility Trials, Flyball, Obedience Tests, Rally-O.)
Thanks to ignorant BYBers and overenthusiastic volunteers at rescues & SPCAs (a friend who fosters was sent a GSD pup that looked reMARKably like a Dachshund!), that term and "pure-bred" have become meaningless.
But I am perfectly happy to believe that all his genes came from GSDs.
The term that counts is "On the KC Breed Register". It doesn't guarantee that the pooch is a worthy representative of its breed, as most English-speaking KCs check only:
1: Are both alleged-parents on the same breed Register?
2: Has the right fee been paid?
3: Is the name applied for available, or has someone already used it?
- nothing about attitude, behaviour, coat, gait, size, type, whatever. But it DOES then entitle the registered pups to be shown as GSDs and to themselves have pups registered with that KC.
As you now have one, learn that the breed's real name (Deutsche Schäferhund) translates as German Shepherd Dog - 3 words in the breed-name, so 3 capital letters needed, and GSD for short.
• To ask about GSDs, join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with GSDs. Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos.
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_F...
"In GSDs" as of 1967
You might have been better off asking some of these questions individually. That is a lot to answer.
Diet - start with whatever the shelter(?) has been feeding her, and gradually change over to whatever you feel is best to feed her. Any high quality puppy food should be fine. Feed 3 times per day for now.
Crate - Depending on the size of the room, it may be beneficial to have a crate as well. Most healthy dogs and pups will not defecate or urinate in a properly sized crate. But left free in a larger room, you're asking for accidents.
Newspaper - NO. All it will do is confuse the pup and hinder the housebreaking process.
Outside - Every half hour to start, gradually reduce to every hour
as far as diet goes start out with what the owners have been feeding her you will need to get her to the vet very quickly for check up and shots and you can ask them what they recommend. As far as housetraining, I never train a dog to go inside and she should be in a crate, section it off if it is too big, dogs don't like to potty where they sleep, take her outside every 30 mins and right after eating, if she goes pee or poop praise and give her a treat. I would not give her free rein of a basement or any room as there are things she could get hurt on, a crate is not a punishment it is a safe place
You do realise that a mix of these two breeds may prove to be quite a handful for an inexperienced dog owner such as yourself don`t you?
But I won`t lecture you on that.
There is loads of info on "pups first few weeks at home and what to do etc on these sites.
I don`t recommend keeping your puppy in the basement.A pup needs to be with its owner and/or other members of the family for most of the time.